Sweet, salty, charred and fragrant, try this recipe for Vietnamese grilled pork (with imperfectly perfect caramelized edges).
I often serve this dish as a snack or appetizer – cutting the chargrilled pork steaks into small pieces so guests can grab them with a toothpick for a salty, umami bite. Many people are surprised this is made with pork butt (shoulder). Usually reserved for pulled pork or braises, pork butt can be dismissed as too tough for quick grilling. But when sliced thinly, like the thin brisket used in Korean chadolbaegi, tougher cuts become tender because there’s less to chew. Thin slices of pork butt are rippled with flavorful fat and, when trimmed and sliced properly, are phenomenal on the grill.
Take care when trimming the shoulder: remove thick seams of fat, gristle and any gland (it looks like a greyish-yellow jelly bean) and discard it. Because you’re not slow-cooking to break everything down, trimming is important for a clean texture and good bites.
Charcoal makes a big difference here. If you can, use briquettes instead of propane (I typically use Kingsford Original). This recipe is inspired by the vibrant street markets of Vietnam and Southeast Asia where vendors grill meats over small charcoal fires. The aroma from live coals and the quick, high heat create an unmistakable flavor and those dark, lacy caramelized edges that are the best part. The marinade contains a fair amount of sugar, so the caramelization stage can go from perfect to burned quickly — keep a close eye on the grill. The initial cooking is gentle as the grill heats, but once the sugars begin to caramelize the process speeds up.
Vietnamese Grilled Pork with Lemongrass
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Author: Jess Pryles
Ingredients
Scale
5 lb pork butt
1/3 cup white sugar
3 tablespoons sambal chili
1/2 cup fish sauce
1/2 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 stalk lemongrass, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups water
Instructions
- Cut the pork butt into thin steaks about 1/4–1/2 inch thick. Aim for consistent thickness rather than uniform size. Trim away large seams of fat, gristle and any gland you find, discarding those pieces.
- Mix the remaining ingredients into a marinade and whisk until combined. Pour the marinade over the pork steaks, cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours; overnight is best.
- Prepare a grill to medium-high heat, around 450°F. For this recipe the goal is strong color and crust from direct heat rather than cooking to a specific internal temperature—achieving a good external sear cooks the meat safely.
- Remove steaks from the marinade and grill in batches if necessary. Flip every 1–2 minutes. At first the color will come on slowly, but once the sugars start to caramelize the color develops rapidly, so watch closely to avoid burning. Flip often and cook until both sides have a deep brown, charred appearance with a nice crust.
- (Optional) Serve with sweet chili sauce or a classic Nuoc Cham dipping sauce.